The first thought that popped into my head a month ago, after I had the terrible accident where I broke my foot, was ‘How Will I WORK Now’? And my instinct was right: I was not allowed to. The doctor suggested bed rest. So I decided that I have to make the best of it, meaning work on things that I usually do not have time to, such as: really document myself when thinking about a new collection, save pictures that inspire me, make a cool mood board, try to extract shapes and forms to be used in actual wearable pieces of clothing, meaning - really and actually DESIGN.

I usually choose fabrics first and let it inspire me as I work, but now I decided to take the process of design step by step and of course you will get to experience my every step, as I will gladly share everything with you. Maybe you will get INSPIRED too. ;)

It all starts with IDEAS/THEMES for the New Look Of Luxe: Modern Sculpture, Minimalism in Visual Arts, Pin-Up Covers.

Because of my Fine Arts background it comes as no surprise that I am inspired by all kinds of art: from simple light installations to Ad Reinhardt’s black canvases, from antique family photos to Russian constructivism, these are just a few of the themes that “spoke” to me in regards of this collection, which will have the following attributes: monochromatic, structured, simple, constructed vs. organic, thoughtfully executed volume, also while remaining wearable and figure flattering to the female form.

MOOD BOARD: images that inspired me.

FORM. Femininity is very important to me, I can only create clothes that I would like to wear and I do not like to wear unflattering garments. Therefore the waist will be accentuated, there will be hint of sexuality expressed by the asymmetric form of the top part of the garments: shoulder shown and covered; my preferred length is right above the knee, to make the dresses and skirts office-appropriated.

FABRICS. This collection is designed to be for the fall/winter [2010] season, therefore I chose thicker fabrics such as wool and cashmere, lined with cotton and silk. The dresses will have integrated corsets with boning structures on the inside, for a better fit. Also, small threaded fasteners of steel will be attached on the dresses, to let the client have her own take on volume, changing small details to make it more unique. Because, for me, luxury means to be able do whatever you want with what you wear, to be able to change it as you please. Smart garments are versatile and give a sense of empowerment to whoever wears them.

COLOR. A dark palette of gray, black and neutrals for clothes that will be forever in a closet. Ignoring the seasonal trends means choosing to wear well made, luxe clothes which will not be dated next season. Nor the season after that. The wearer can add touches of color by choosing bright accessories, scarlet lipstick, cobalt blue nail color, a positive attitude.

FIRST SET OF SKETCHES:

I took out geometric forms [from the mood board] which appeal to me and can be used in the process of creating a wearable piece of clothing. This is just the first set of sketches, some sort of a brainstorming if you will. The step that follows is very important, because you have to filter all these ideas into actual pieces of clothing. Thinking about patterns is vital right now; it’s like a filter that lets you develop only certain ideas further.

Check back later this week to check out the next steps from my process of creating a fashion collection. I am sure this is a big win for me and hopefully I can INSPIRE you to do whatever you always wanted to do but never had the time.

Click below for the Romanian translation.

Primul lucru la care m-am gandit dupa ce am avut accidentul in care mi-am rupt piciorul a fost “Nu pot sa lucrez cu piciorul in ghips!!!” si am avut dreptate. Medicul m-a sfatuit sa ma odihnesc, stiam ca urmeaza o luna de zile de stat in pat. Aveam deci cum sa fac tot ce imi doream sa fac pana acum, lucruri pentru care insa nu aveam timp. Aveam deci timp sa gandesc o colectie si sa o realizez ca la carte: cu o tema, surse multiple de inspiratie, plansa de atmosfera, schite initiale, dezvoltare a schitelor, gandirea si realizarea/modificarea tiparelor, aveam timp sa ma gandesc la forme si transpunerea acestora in haine purtabile, constructie, detalii, culori, materiale, jocuri de contraste, toate exprimate printr-o colectie INSPIRED by: SCULPTURA.

Designul vestimentar e mai mult decat doar a face schite, este complex si procesul consta intr-o serie de pasi care te duc de la o idee la o intreaga colectie ce iti poarte numele, rezultat al unor idei trecute prin propriile tale ’site’.

Totul incepe cu IDEEA/TEMA propunerii in legatura cu noua directie a luxului: sculptura moderna, minimalism in artele vizuale, idoli pin-up reinterpretati.

Datorita afinitatilor mele cu artele vizuale si datorita faptului ca am studiat pictura foarte multi ani, nu e de mirare ca cele mai diferse forme de expresie artistica ma inspira: de la instalatii simple in care limbajul vizual e lumina la adancimile tablourilor negre ale lui Ad Reinhardt, de la vechi fotografii de familie la constructivismul rusesc, acestea sunt doar cateva surse de inspiratie pentru colectia aceasta, care printre altele va avea urmatoarele calitati: monocromatica, structurata, simpla, construit versus organic, volum bine plasat, toate exprimate prin haine purtabile care accentueaza forma feminina.

PLANSA DE ATMOSFERA:

FORMA. Feminitate este foarte importanta pentru mine. Nu creez niciodata haine pe care sa nu vreau sa le port si nu port haine care nu imi scot in evidenta forma corpului, prin urmare talia va fi accentuata deseori prin baze de corset cu balene metalice integrate in captuseala bustului rochiilor. Un joc al sexualitatii se va realiza prin ascunderea unui singur umar prin forme ce reprezinta continuari organice ale rochiei, pe cand celalalt umar ramane descoperit, un joc de plin-gol, acoperit-descoperit, cu forme asimetrice care creaza si o lungire optica a formei feminie inspre umar. Lungimea va fi de 5-10cm peste genunghi, forma pana/pencil, astfel incat rochiile sa fie purtabile mai ales la birou. Existenta crapaturii in spate, jos, pentru mobilitate si pentru un alt joc clasic si subtil al sexualitatii feminine.

MATERIALE. Colectia aceasta este gandita pentru a fi realizata pentru sezonul de toamna/iarna [2010] astfel am ales materiale mai groase care sa faca fata unei temperaturi scazute: stofe de lana si casmir, intarie, dublate si captusite cu bumbac sau matase. Capse mici vor fi aplicate atat pe rochii cat si pe volumele adaugate pentru a realiza posibilitatea schimbarii formei acelor volume de material, create pentru o continuare a formei initiale a rochiei. Pentru mine, luxul inseamna sa ai posibilitatea sa fii creativ purtand o haina care sa te lase sa ‘te joci’ cu forma ei, sa o modifici, sa fii in continuare creativ cu munca mea, purtand o haina in mai multe feluri, accesorizata diferit. Astfel clientul, purtatorul, dobandeste un simt al puterii asupra obiectului de consum.

CULOARE. Atat datorita sezonului de iarna cat si datorita faptului ca vreau sa creez haine care sa existe in dulapul clientelor mele o viata intreaga, am gandit colectia in culori neutre, inchise, griuri colorate si nuante de negru. Haine bine facute si elegante prin simplitatea lor geometrica, care nu tin cont de tendinte actuale si care nu se demodeaza sezonul urmator. Lux inseamna o piesa vestimentara care oricat de veche ar fi, daca e accesorizata corect sa arate modern si potrivit oricarei situatii, oricand. Haine durabile si versatile, cu detalii usor modificabile pentru a le da diferite forme, in functie de personalitatea clientelor.

PRIMELE SCHITE:

Din plansa de atmosfera am extras forme care m-au inspirat, care mai apoi le voi transforma in forme ale hainelor, construite din diferite tipare modificate dupa tipare de baza. Cele multe idei prezente mai sus se vor cerne tocmai datorita existentei tiparelor in creatia vestimentara: desenam haine pe care stim sa le realizam practic. Din punctul meu de vedere nu are sens sa desenam haine de dragul de a desena, abia dupa ce o piesa vestimentara e gandita tehnic, practic, si realizabil, acesteia i se da ‘viata’.

Urmeaza deci dezvoltarea acestor schite initiale si pana la produsul finit/de consum mai sunt multi pasi. Insa cu cea mai mare placere poti sa revii pentru a urmari intreg procesul [meu] de creatie al unei colectii vestimentare. Pentru mine este un castig foarte mare faptul ca exersez ceva ce mi-am dorit tot timpul sa fac, poate te inspira si pe tine sa iti urmezi pasiuni pe care le-ai amanat datorita lipsei de timp.

Eu am invatat ca nu e nevoie de un picior rupt pentru asa ceva, ci doar de incredere in rezultat. :)